Acne skin care in winter

By Eva Neumann Nov 28, 2011, 3:06 GMT

Berlin - A forehead studded with red papules. A nose resplendent with a painful pimple. Skin on the face, neck and back feeling unpleasantly taut. Most people are familiar with these symptoms of common acne, known medically as acne vulgaris.

'Almost everyone gets acne between the ages of 12 and 17 - the rate is over 80 per cent,' noted Berthold Rzany, a dermatologist at Berlin's Charite university hospital. 'In about 10 per cent of the cases, acne persists beyond age 25.'

Its type and severity vary greatly.

Androgens, 'male' hormones that increase in both boys and girls during puberty, are the chief cause of common acne, said Hans-Georg Dauer, a member of the German Dermatologists Association. 'They stimulate the sebaceous glands into producing more skin oil.'

Meanwhile, the skin's surface sheds more keratin particles (dead skin cells). They clog the sebaceous gland ducts, causing blockages that look on the outside like small white nodules.

Bacteria inhabiting the skin as 'normal flora' find optimal living condition in this mixture of oil and keratin. They can multiply greatly and trigger inflammations including small, pus-filled abscesses.

These processes occur more often in winter than summer for some acne sufferers.

'Skin diseases frequently worsen in winter,' remarked Andrea Schloebe of the Cologne-based Society for Dermopharmacy. The reason, she said, is that the acne-irritated skin is then subjected to additional strains: warm, dry air in heated rooms, cold air outside and a big difference in temperatures.

The cold also upsets the skin's natural balance.

'When outdoor temperatures in winter drop below seven or eight degrees centigrade, the skin is no longer able to form a sufficient protective barrier,' Dauer said. 'It breaks open, allowing pathogens to penetrate the interstices and aggravate existing acne.'

And sunlight, a factor that holds acne in check at least a little in summer, is in short supply in winter: 'We know that natural sunlight and visible light have a favourable effect on acne development,' Schloebe said.

There is less daylight in winter, however, and people spend less time outdoors. So long winter walks can help ease acne symptoms.

'Visible light is also used in therapy. But only moderate results can be expected,' Rzany pointed out.

In any event, not overdoing it is important. 'Tanning shop light must be treated with caution,' Schloebe warned. 'The shops use mostly ultraviolet A rays, which have an adverse effect on acne.'

Cleaning and care is essential for skin with acne.

'What matters most is that the skin care products be labelled non-comedogenic - in other words, not causing pimples. And the fewer emulsifiers, preservatives and so on that the skin care products contain, the better,' Dauer said.

The acne skin care lines available at chemist's shops are suitable.

'An acne line usually consists of a cleanser, an astringent and a cream. These products also contain substances that have an anti-bacterial effect and that break up the keratin,' Schloebe said.

'In summer it's better to use lighter products like a hydrogel or gel-cream. In the winter, a cream is advisable.'

Aggressive astringents, soaps, fatty creams, vaseline, duck fat and the like are taboo.

'They clog pores and cover bacteria, allowing them to wreak havoc under the layer of fat,' Dauer warned. It is also important not to touch pimples because germs on the hands can aggravate acne symptoms. There is a consolation, though: most patients will not suffer from common acne for very many winters.

Some home remedies can alleviate acne symptoms.

'A complementary treatment with a camomile vapour bath can help,' Schloebe said. The steam opens pores and the camomile has an anti-inflammatory effect. It not only does the skin good, but also the respiratory passages, which are often irritated in winter.