India Features

Trained in architecture, excelling in jewellery designing

By Vishnu Makhijani Sep 29, 2006, 4:07 GMT

New Delhi, Sep 29 (IANS) Pavan Anand acquired a degree in architecture before he realised his calling lay in designing jewellery. Starting out with Rs.30,000 two-and-a-half years ago, his company today records annual sales in the region of Rs.30 million.

And to go by his just-unveiled Maharaja Line, there are exciting times ahead for the Mumbai-based 27-year-old. 'I'm trained not only to design beautifully but to give my customers a product that has a purpose. If that purpose is not there, the best of designs will be a failure,' Anand told IANS at a preview of the Maharaja Line here.

'My endeavour is to provide women with an effortless sense of style and flamboyance.'

This philosophy is more than reflected in Anand's new range.

Take, for instance, the bridal ensemble in green jade and fresh water pearls against a backdrop of square emeralds, garnets and white quartz, or the antique-silver framework studded with inverted pear-shaped blue topaz, accentuated with fresh water pearl clusters - both of which make a dramatic impact but at the same time are quietly understated.

Then, there is a necklace with matching earrings handcrafted in silver and gold plated and studded with white quartz and semi-finished turquoise; an earring set that is an outsized garnet with a mesh of white quartz with fresh water pearls as danglers - again making an elegant statement without the 'in your face' kind of impact.

And there is the 'Show Stopper', a dazzling array of pink sapphire, rose quart and fresh water pearls, the necklace being heightened by a matching 'tikka' adorning the forehead.

All this in a range that starts at Rs.3,000 and goes up to Rs.11,000.

'My endeavour is to promote Indian crafting and design sensibility globally, yet ensuring my customers receive a product that is a fair balance of ethnicity and international finesse,' said Anand, who retails under the Dagmar (German for 'Glorious Day') label.

That he is succeeding in his efforts can be gauged from the fact that Dagmar jewellery sells around the world -- in New York, Miami, London, Budapest, Barcelona, Sydney, Jakarta, Manila, Istanbul, Kuwait, Dubai, and Durban. In India, it retails at stores like Samsaara (Delhi) and Ogaan (Mumbai).

Given this reach, Anand made a distinction between the markets that were the most lucrative and the ones that gave him the maximum satisfaction.

'Where I sell the most is New York because it's full of very flamboyant people from all over the world. My best market is South Africa - they are very savvy with jewellery, very critical,' he explained.

'Essentially, mine is a brand of jewellery that I will not classify - you can wear it to a temple, to an opera, a wedding or if you are just sitting at home. To classify jewellery would be to kill it. Therefore, it is best to leave it open, leave it loose-ended.'

Holding that 'jewellery is an integral part of the wardrobe', he lamented that other than what was worn to work, women generally wore dressy jewellery only at weddings.

'Why should (heavy) jewellery be only a part of the bridal wardrobe? Why not wear it to the nightclub? Why should you keep it locked away and bring it out only once in a while?' Anand wondered, saying it was this line of thought that drove him to start the Dagmar label.

'Two-and-a-half years ago, I drew up this whole line of products, starting with the very interesting concept of leather with very ornate stones. We made it look contemporary and made it more conducive for a younger age group - kundan with leather, Victorian art deco motifs with leather. It turned out to be a very successful line.

'Then, we had the Victorian chic collection which was inspired by European antiquity but made very contemporary,' Anand added.

What next?

A clothes and footwear line with the jewellery designs being reflected in the outfits - and possibly the footwear too. That would, indeed be a first for Indian fashion.

© 2006 Indo-Asian News Service